Engine caught fire!
Discussion
froggie said:
hope the insurance looked after you ok.it must of been quite new at the time bet you were in a state when she went up, back fire is a common corse.ive just rebuilt an mv agusta back fired through the plastic air box. im working on a new alloy air intake arangement at the moment should rectify this problem and increase air flow. Ah well tis the same car, i striped some parts off, beleive it or not i even recoverd the radiator,and front indicator surrounds,oil and water tanks,steering rack and front suspention,to name a few bits although cosmeticaly challanged.i wanted to buy it and re shell it with a sagaris at the time but .John wouldnt sell it in 1 go.she wasnt too bad once i pulled the singed matting back,i could of repaired that with just a front end.I itched for a fortnight
nice color and funky dash too
Yeah the insurance company were top drawer. The car was just about 3 years old when it went. It was a sad (and bloody frightening!) experience as I had specced it myself and been to the factory to watch it being made. It was horrible to see it in that state. Glad you were able to cannibalise some parts from it.nice color and funky dash too
pitty i didnt get chance to revive it, i bet it was as you say frightening being in it.
I was once stuck in a cerbra sideways across a tack after loosing the brakes at 115mph,threw it richt ,crossed the infield and slid back on to the track sideways further round the corner and stalled.the marshals thaught i was in the gravel pit as cars hurtled round the corner towards me and had to swurve in eather direction to avoid me
the electrics had pulled loose off the rear tank , the starter and doors would not funktion,i had to sit there for two further laps,only the emergency door pull cable worked on the passangers side.
I was once stuck in a cerbra sideways across a tack after loosing the brakes at 115mph,threw it richt ,crossed the infield and slid back on to the track sideways further round the corner and stalled.the marshals thaught i was in the gravel pit as cars hurtled round the corner towards me and had to swurve in eather direction to avoid me
the electrics had pulled loose off the rear tank , the starter and doors would not funktion,i had to sit there for two further laps,only the emergency door pull cable worked on the passangers side.
- ***WELL WORTH KEEPING A CHECK ON THE DOOR EMERGENCEY PULL CORD**** i tell all passangers about it as they get in just incase (not that i drive in a violent manner)
I finally got round to doing a few bits yesterday, as the engine turns over quite slowly, and is a PITA to start when hot. This led me to check the condition of my battery terminals / leads.
I'm bloody glad I did!
The main 12v feed to the starter / alternator was resting on the chassis.
The cable tie securing it had broken due to its' proximity to the exhaust manifold.
It looked fine. Then I moved it...
In the second picture you can see where the cable was routed along the chassis.
Quite how it hadn't already gone up in flames I do not know!
It was only the powder coating that was preventing catastrophe, the consequences of which makes me go cold...
The car is kept in a locked (and locked again!) garage that adjoins my house -if the car had caught fire, so would they, and possibly my family and I...
So - to work!
Step 1 - remove the battery. I'll just undo the clamp that secures the battery in the tray...
WTF!?!?!
There isn't one!
Are they all like this?
I couldn't see any provision for one. I hope I'm wrong and mine was just missing.
Anyhow...removed the battery and stripped all the old cables out, including the Anderson connector which, as it turns out, was like new.
I redid all the cables using 35mm² welding cable with new crimped terminals / heatshrink throughout.
Where a positive cable was going to be cable-tied to a chassis rail, the cable was protected with heat-shrink and the chassis protected with Armaflex (sticky-back foam rubber tape)...
The main cable was re-routed and protected additionally with heat-proof sleeve thus...
The whole chassis leg was then protected with a heavy duty heat-proof jacket held in place with hose clips which, unlike cable ties will not melt!
I made a battery clamp using two lengths of studding and a bridge-piece...
Finally, everything was re-assembled, with the battery compartment cover sealed properly with Armaflex.
The moment of truth...
She starts absolutely on the button, cold and hot.
She idles smoother than I can ever remember, and runs like a dream
Even the windows work at a proper speed now - they haven't done that since I've had the car!
Bit of a result all round really
I can only echo what others have said - if you haven't checked this vulnerable area and are putting it off like I kept doing...
DON'T!!! CHECK IT NOW!
...and before anyone berates me for not cleaning the chassis back to gleaming white - I like Waxoil and think it does a good job...
I'm bloody glad I did!
The main 12v feed to the starter / alternator was resting on the chassis.
The cable tie securing it had broken due to its' proximity to the exhaust manifold.
It looked fine. Then I moved it...
In the second picture you can see where the cable was routed along the chassis.
Quite how it hadn't already gone up in flames I do not know!
It was only the powder coating that was preventing catastrophe, the consequences of which makes me go cold...
The car is kept in a locked (and locked again!) garage that adjoins my house -if the car had caught fire, so would they, and possibly my family and I...
So - to work!
Step 1 - remove the battery. I'll just undo the clamp that secures the battery in the tray...
WTF!?!?!
There isn't one!
Are they all like this?
I couldn't see any provision for one. I hope I'm wrong and mine was just missing.
Anyhow...removed the battery and stripped all the old cables out, including the Anderson connector which, as it turns out, was like new.
I redid all the cables using 35mm² welding cable with new crimped terminals / heatshrink throughout.
Where a positive cable was going to be cable-tied to a chassis rail, the cable was protected with heat-shrink and the chassis protected with Armaflex (sticky-back foam rubber tape)...
The main cable was re-routed and protected additionally with heat-proof sleeve thus...
The whole chassis leg was then protected with a heavy duty heat-proof jacket held in place with hose clips which, unlike cable ties will not melt!
I made a battery clamp using two lengths of studding and a bridge-piece...
Finally, everything was re-assembled, with the battery compartment cover sealed properly with Armaflex.
The moment of truth...
She starts absolutely on the button, cold and hot.
She idles smoother than I can ever remember, and runs like a dream
Even the windows work at a proper speed now - they haven't done that since I've had the car!
Bit of a result all round really
I can only echo what others have said - if you haven't checked this vulnerable area and are putting it off like I kept doing...
DON'T!!! CHECK IT NOW!...and before anyone berates me for not cleaning the chassis back to gleaming white - I like Waxoil and think it does a good job...
Nelly1, I just had a quick nosy under my wheel arch, and could not see the battery cable routed as yours was on the same chassis tube.
It looks like mine runs along the lower chassis rail then into the battery box, assuming thats what the silver coloured cabling is. It's in for a service in two weeks so will get it checked then, and will try and have a better look myself first if I get the time.
As mine is an early car, and assuming(!) the factory was reasonably consistent where they routed the cables, do you think the cable on your car was re-routed when the chassis was replaced during the previous owners care? Or can I simply not see my cable without dismantling more?
cheers
Whitey
It looks like mine runs along the lower chassis rail then into the battery box, assuming thats what the silver coloured cabling is. It's in for a service in two weeks so will get it checked then, and will try and have a better look myself first if I get the time.
As mine is an early car, and assuming(!) the factory was reasonably consistent where they routed the cables, do you think the cable on your car was re-routed when the chassis was replaced during the previous owners care? Or can I simply not see my cable without dismantling more?
cheers
Whitey
Hi Andrew
It certainly looks like your main cable is routed as you say.
It would be nice to think this was the 'standard' route with some form of heat-proofing.
If so, it looks like mine was re-routed when the chassis was replaced (2005).
Ironically the usual weak point of the Anderson connector was not a concern on my car - it was probably replaced with the chassis, which would explain the 'as-new' condition of it.
As an aside, does your car have any sort of battery clamp?
I can't imagine TVR would let the cars leave the factory without one, but as I stated - I couldn't find any provision for one, and had to drill mounting holes for my effort myself.
It's certainly worth checking the condition of the terminations and cable though - just for peace of mind if nothing else...
ATB mate
Neill
ETA - looking back at my pics, particularly this one...
...there is something cable-tied along the same route as your pic...
It certainly looks like your main cable is routed as you say.
It would be nice to think this was the 'standard' route with some form of heat-proofing.
If so, it looks like mine was re-routed when the chassis was replaced (2005).
Ironically the usual weak point of the Anderson connector was not a concern on my car - it was probably replaced with the chassis, which would explain the 'as-new' condition of it.
As an aside, does your car have any sort of battery clamp?
I can't imagine TVR would let the cars leave the factory without one, but as I stated - I couldn't find any provision for one, and had to drill mounting holes for my effort myself.
It's certainly worth checking the condition of the terminations and cable though - just for peace of mind if nothing else...
ATB mate
Neill
ETA - looking back at my pics, particularly this one...
...there is something cable-tied along the same route as your pic...
Edited by nelly1 on Monday 25th May 22:13
shapeshifter said:
Mine came back from an engine re-build with badly damaged heat shield along the battery cable under the passenger wheel arch.
It's really not the sort of thing you can leave to chance or just assume it'll all be ok just because it's been serviced or whatever.For the sake of an hour and minimal grief this is one job you just have to do yourself.
Just remind yourself with these pictures again...
Nelly1... Ive just found out mine has a bigger battery that doesnt fit into th etray properly and doesnt have a clamp
Cars in for a service at the moment and they want to put the original size batter in and get the clamp. Im tempted to fabricate a bracket like you have done here. IS it easy to do? Is your battery a larger size?
Cars in for a service at the moment and they want to put the original size batter in and get the clamp. Im tempted to fabricate a bracket like you have done here. IS it easy to do? Is your battery a larger size?
BDM said:
Nelly1... Ive just found out mine has a bigger battery that doesnt fit into the tray properly and doesnt have a clamp
Cars in for a service at the moment and they want to put the original size battery in and get the clamp. Im tempted to fabricate a bracket like you have done here. IS it easy to do? Is your battery a larger size?
I'm not sure about the battery being a standard size - mine is 590CCA.Cars in for a service at the moment and they want to put the original size battery in and get the clamp. Im tempted to fabricate a bracket like you have done here. IS it easy to do? Is your battery a larger size?
I'm also not sure about whether or not the cars had a clamp from the factory - I could find no evidence / fixing holes for one...
I made mine from two ten inch lengths of M6 studding which I secured to the battery tray through holes I had to drill.
I then made a bridge piece using 20mm x 4mm x 300mm bar which I insulated / cushioned with Armaflex.
This was then bolted (not too tight) onto the studding across the battery.
Total job took about an hour.
Did a safety check on a friend's Tuscan today (03 'S') and:-
The whole thing took three hours.
- while the main battery cable did have heat protection
- it wasn't tight to the chassis (loose near the manifold)
- it didn't have a battery clamp and
- the Anderson connector was cracked to buggery and the terminals were badly corroded!
The whole thing took three hours.
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